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IM6, IM7, IM8, IM10 Graphite rods?Expand / Collapse
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Posted 8/1/2006 7:04 AM
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I am confused,  I just purchased a rod with IM6 graphite but whats the difference between the other types?  Is IM6 a low grade? Any info would be greatly appreciated.
Post #4589
Posted 8/1/2006 11:55 AM
Supreme Being

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Not to add any more confusion, but I also have some HM-64 rods (which I REALLY, REALLY like).   Can't begin to tell you the difference, but am interested in hearing if someone else can....

chumhead

Post #4603
Posted 8/1/2006 6:54 PM
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im not posative but i think its the layers inside the rod
Post #4633
Posted 8/1/2006 8:56 PM
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Did a little research this evening. the following is what I found.

IM = Intermediate Modulus

HM = High Modulus

*****

The first thing you should know is there is no industry standard for IM6, IM7and IM8. Rather, it’s a “range” that manufacturers use to classify their rods according to the “modulus” content. Modulus is a term that describes the stiffness to weight ratio of the graphite that’s used to create the rod blank. Here’s how it works….when you cast a lure, the rod flexes with the weight of the lure, storing energy as it flexes. When the motion of the rod stops, the rod flexes and releases all of its stored energy to propel the lure. When you increase the modulus of the graphite, you increase the ability of that graphite to store and release energy. You also increase the speed that the rod releases the stored energy. That in turn, increases the lure speed that is generated in the cast. Increase the modulus and you increase the reaction speed and power of the rod blank.

Below is a general example of modulus ratings using G Loomis classes:
GLX - 65 million modulus
IMX - 55 million modulus
GL3 - 47 million modulus (IM8)
GL2 - 42 million modulus (IM7)
IM6 - 38 million modulus
Standard Graphite - 33 million modulus

Unfortunately, increased modulus results in increased costs. The highest modulus graphite material costs as much as ten times more than standard graphite. The drawback with increased modulus is the rod blank tends to be somewhat “brittle” and more likely to break from impact fracture, such as dropping the rod on a hard surface. If you tend be abusive with your gear, it would be wise to back away from the top modulus rods and choose something in the mid range that will offer more durability. Before you purchase a rod, especially the high priced, high modulus, be sure that it is backed by a lifetime warranty.

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and more

******

Graphite is the most common rod material today, and is the lightest and strongest material. However, there are many varieties of graphite, depending on manufacturing quality and process, and thus graphite rods range widely in cost. Graphite rods, especially higher-end models, tend to be thin and a susceptible to breaking if they are chipped, scratched, or cracked. Lower-end graphite rods, these days, are probably almost as durable as fiberglass rods. Most high-end rods have lifetime warranties, partly because they do tend to break more often. Below are some explanations of rod materials:

From Ralph Heidecke: Types of Graphite (IM6 etc)  [from Brian Costlow, posted this back in April 1998]

IM6 is a 'Grade' of Magnamite, a graphite product of Hercules Inc. BASF makes a similar product, as well as others. The important thing about IM6, IM7, IM8 ratings for fishing applications is the tensile modulus. Most dept. store rods that are graphite composites are around 30-35 million psi tensile modulus. The IM is a shorthand for that tensile rating. IM6 = 40 million IM7 = 41 million IM8 = 45 million Tensile modulus briefly is: (Courtesy Owens-Corning) "When a bar is pulled in tension, it has to get longer. The tensile modulus is used to calculate how much longer it will get when a certain load is applied to it. Units are normally millions of pounds per square inch. Higher numbers indicate materials which will not elongate as much as others when they are being compared under equal tensile loading conditions." That elongation, or elasticity, is what allows the rod to spring and bend back.

So (grossly oversimpifying) a rod made of IM6 can be built with similar strength and flex characteristics to a rod that uses cheaper material, while making the tube wall thinner, which in theory makes the rod lighter and more sensitive. On the other hand, just because a rod is built using IM6 does not mean it's a great rod. Exactly how the material is laid up in the blank, whether any other material (other graphite composites, fiberglass, aramid and gel-spun polys for instance) the taper, length, all go towards making a good blank. These things also affect the action (fast or slow taper). Then to make a good rod, you have to worry about the seat and handle, and how it's connected, guide material and so on.

****

Trim-Tab

Post #4645
Posted 8/1/2006 8:57 PM
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OK...it finally got to me so I did a Google search.....

----------------------------------------------------------------

from http://www.flyanglersonline.com/cst/cst010801.html

IM6 is merely a trade name for Hercules fiber of (not especially high) modulus.

Since there are no industry standards that I am aware of, there is no way to compare apples to apples, i.e. the modulus of say IM6 to one manufacturer will not be the same as the modulus of IM6 used by another manufacturer.

from Tackle Warehouse @ http://www.tacklewarehouse.com/RodSelection.html

IM6, IM7, etc.: These are trade names for particular graphite produced by the Hexcel Corporation. These numbers are not industry standards or an indication of quality, especially since other companies use the designations to refer to graphite not made by Hexcel. At best, they allow you to compare the quality of the material used to build different rods by the same manufacturer. You can be confident that the IM7 rod would use better graphite than the IM6 rod if both are made by the same manufacturer. It's more difficult to say the same about rods from two different companies, since they could be made from material from completely different manufacturers.

Modulus: As stated above, modulus refers to the stiffness of the graphite, not the amount of material used or the number of graphite fibers incorporated into the sheets. Buying a rod based solely on the modulus rating is a mistake because other factors must be considered. For instance, you don't want the stiffest rod for light line techniques or cranking. In addition, other qualities must be incorporated in the graphite itself and the rod must be designed correctly to ensure the best performance and durability of the rod. The other components that go into a quality rod can also add significantly to the cost.

From Bass Pro Shops @ http://www.basspro.com/servlet/catalog.CFPage?mode=article&objectID=29385

Graphite comes in a variety of different "modulus ratings," which is the measurement that is used to describe the strength of the fibers used in the rod.  The higher the modulus rating, the stronger and denser the fibers are that make up the rod.  Think of it this way - as the rating goes up, the material involved goes down, allowing for a lighter weight, faster action and more sensitivity - while also maintaining it's core strength.  The one downside to all of this is as the rating goes up, the brittleness in the rod increases.  (Finding a common ground between features and the "brittle" factor is the key to success.) 

 

To put this in an example, Fiberglass has a modulus rating between six and 13-million, while Graphite has a rating between 33 and 60-million.  (IM6 blanks have a rating of 33-million, while IM7's are pegged at 42-million.)

 

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

Confused yet?  I know I am.....

for more information, google search "modulus rating of fishing rods", there are thousands of articles on the subject, but they all pretty much boil it down to "there is no set standard for this rating", so unless you are comparing rods from the same manufacturer, the rating is useless.

 

chumhead



Post #4646
Posted 8/1/2006 8:59 PM
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Flats,

Looks like we were both doing our search at the same time.....good info.

chumhead

Post #4647
Posted 8/2/2006 11:46 AM
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   Huh???????

You must have gotten more and better sleep than i, to do all that research. I couldn't have even typed it.

 BBQ 

Is it time yet??

Dave

Post #4664
Posted 8/2/2006 1:11 PM
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yeah it kinda bugged the crap out of me too. I should have quoted my sources though...

anyhoo, I got something interesting to post.

Trim-Tab

Post #4666
Posted 8/2/2006 1:24 PM
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WOW!!!  Thats alot of Info.  Thanks,  It's not as confusing anymore.  I am going to stick with IM6,  Only because its not as brittle.
Post #4668
Posted 8/2/2006 5:15 PM
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Holy cow!  you guys either have way too much time on your hands or can type like a son of a gun!  Great info!  It would have taken me and my fat fingers an hour to type a reply like that.
Thanks for doing the research and for taking the time to post your findings.
2D
Post #4676
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